Electric appliances

The electrical system that will accommodate most of today's electric appliances is usually characterized by the following:
A single, 125 amp or larger electrical panel with circuit breakers. A label on the inside of the panel will indicate the amperage capacity.
Electrical receptacles for three-pronged plugs.
Receptacles placed within six feet along wall surfaces.
Ground fault circuit interrupters (GFI) protecting receptacles in the bathroom and, in the newest homes, in the kitchen and out-of-doors. The presence of an interrupter may be indicated by the presence of two small test/reset buttons on the three-pronged receptacles.
Arc Fault Interrupters (AFIs) are the latest safety device and help prevent electrical fires. The latest electrical codes require their use in bedroom circuits.
Wiring neatly done. All connections inside a plastic or metal electrical box. All electrical boxes have a proper cover.
However, a little knowledge can be dangerous: just because the receptacle is of the newer 3 pronged variety does not mean that it was wired correctly, the same can be true about the GFIs and AFIs.
Possible Signs of Inadequate Electrical Systems
Larger fuse sizes used to "prevent fuses from blowing." Note: It is probable that 30 amp fuses or larger are the proper size for the water heater, dryer and stove, but not for other circuits.
15 or 20 amp fuses blow regularly. Extension cords used as a permanent part of the system.
Lights dim when an electric appliance is turned on. Use of adapters to increase the number of appliances plugged into one receptacle. Use of converter plugs to allow appliances with three-pronged plugs to be plugged into two-pronged receptacles. Three or more electrical panels in a single family home.
Upgrading Old Electrical Systems
Most older home electrical systems can be upgraded into safe and fully functional systems without a complete re-wiring of the home. Some of the original wiring - even some of the old "tube and knob" - may be safely used for lighting circuits and other low amperage utility circuits. The "87 gig drive" needs a newer grounded circuit, but the light and table radio next to the computer will work fine in a properly functioning 1910 circuit. So, if you get a bid from an electrician for a re-wiring of the house, here are a few questions to ask:
Could the existing electrical entrance provide me with enough amperage if I switched some of the larger appliances to natural gas or propane? (Note: a larger home may not need more than a 100 amp. entrance if most of the cooking, heating, water heating and clothes drying is done with gas or propane.)
Conversely, does this work take into account next years project? For example, a new kitchen may require further upgrades to the electrical capacity of the entrance.
Can some of the existing circuits be used in conjunction with some new circuits?
If some of the new wiring is being performed during a remodel, would this be a good time to add new circuits to neighboring rooms?
Are some of the proposed upgrades required in new construction but not required in existing older homes? And, if not, do I need them? For example, today's code requires a receptacle within 6 feet of any wall surface. But that code does not apply to most existing walls in an older home. Adding receptacles in some walls may be very useful in some areas but not in others. Will the electrical work damage any surfaces, trim or other elements of the home? Is the restoration included in the bid? (Note: electricians who specialize in remodeling and upgrades may be able to perform the work with less damage to the home).